We were thrilled to welcome Derry Clarke from renowned restaurant, L'Ecrivain to GROW HQ last weekend as the latest visiting chef in our Homegrownseries of long table dinners. Derry very much shares HQ’s homegrown, seasonal ethos and talked about his Michelin star more as an exercise in bringing food back to its basic flavours, rather than poshing it up. I like that idea. My favourite course on Sunday night was his second starter which was a celeriac and wild mushroom terrine – it was spectacularly good.
His recipe below featured in the GIY book GROW COOK EAT and in his own book Keeping it Simple,and features wild mushrooms and another seasonal favourite, Jerusalem artichoke. This recipe uses wild pickled mushrooms, packed full of strong flavours. It serves 8 as a starter.
For the Gnocchi:
For the Mushrooms
To prepare the artichokes, peel them and put them in a saucepan with the milk, the thyme and the garlic. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper and simmer until tender, about 25-30 minutes. Remove from the milk and keep warm until you are ready to serve. To make the gnocchi, sift the flour into a large bowl. Add the warm mashed potato, then the eggs, the grated Parmesan and the chopped parsley. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper and form into a soft dough.
Divide the mixture into quarters and roll each quarter into a cylindrical shape. Divide each cylinder into six pieces. Lightly press a fork into the top of each piece. Cook the gnocchi in batches in salted boiling water for 5 minutes. They are cooked when they rise to the top. They are now ready to serve, or you could brown them on a pan in a little oil for a different texture. Keep them in a warm oven until you are ready to use them.
To cook the mushrooms, clean and trim them and sauté them in a pan with the olive oil, chardonnay vinegar and chopped tarragon. Keep warm. To assemble, divide the gnocchi, the artichokes and the mushrooms between eight starter plates and serve.
Michael Kelly is an author, broadcaster and founder of GIY.